DIY Synthetic Quilt (Climashield APEX)

By topquilt.com · Updated Oct 21, 2026 · 5 min read

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Building a DIY synthetic quilt is the best first gear project for most people. Climashield APEX is a continuous-filament insulation sold in sheets, so you don't need to build baffle chambers or wrestle loose down. If you can sew a straight seam on a home machine, you can make a quilt that's warm, durable when damp and sized exactly for you. This guide walks through materials, insulation weights and a step-by-step build.

Why Climashield APEX?

Climashield APEX is a continuous-filament polyester insulation. Because the fibers are long sheets rather than short staple fibers, it doesn't need dense quilting to stay in place — the main reason it's the go-to insulation for DIY and many cottage synthetic quilts. It also keeps more of its warmth when damp than down, and it's cheaper.

The trade-off: it's heavier and bulkier than down for the same warmth. See down vs synthetic quilts for a full comparison, and our DIY down quilt guide if you want to go the down route later.

Choosing insulation weight

*These figures reflect commonly published supplier guidelines and builder consensus, not standardized tests. Cold sleepers should add a step, or layer two sheets (e.g., 2.5 + 5.0) for colder builds. Layering two thinner sheets also lets you build a modular system later.

Materials list (regular size quilt)

A typical regular quilt is roughly 54 inches wide at the shoulders and 78 inches long finished, tapering to about 40 inches at the foot. Adjust with our quilt size calculator.

See quilt-making materials for supplier and fabric choices. Climashield APEX is mostly sold by gear-fabric specialists such as Ripstop by the Roll; some sellers list it on Amazon too: check price on Amazon.

Tools

• Home sewing machine with a size 70/10 or 80/12 microtex needle
• Rotary cutter, cutting mat and long straight edge
• Pins or binder clips (clips leave no holes)
• Large floor space or table to lay out fabric
• Lighter or hot knife to seal cut nylon edges and cord ends
• Kitchen or luggage scale to weigh materials

Step-by-step build

1. Make a pattern

Draw your quilt shape on paper or directly on the fabric with a washable marker: shoulder width, hip width and foot width, plus length. Add about 1/2 inch seam allowance all around. Many builders use a simple trapezoid taper from shoulders to foot. Our sizing guide explains why to size generously.

2. Cut fabric and insulation

Cut outer and inner fabric to the pattern. Cut the APEX to the same shape, possibly a hair smaller at the edges so it doesn't bunch in the seam. Use a straight edge and rotary cutter on the fabric; scissors are fine for APEX.

3. Stack the layers

Lay the layers in this order, from bottom to top:

1. APEX insulation
2. Inner fabric, right side up
3. Outer fabric, right side down (right sides facing each other)

This is the "pillowcase" method. After sewing and turning, the insulation ends up between the two fabrics with clean finished edges.

4. Sew the perimeter

Clip all layers together and sew around the perimeter with a 1/2 inch seam, leaving a gap of about 12–18 inches (usually at the head end) for turning. Backstitch at the start and end. Use a longer stitch length (about 3 mm) and a walking foot if you have one; slippery nylon shifts.

5. Turn and close

Trim corners, then turn the quilt right-side out through the gap. The APEX will now be inside. Smooth it out, then close the gap by folding the raw edges inward and topstitching.

6. Topstitch the edges

Topstitch around the entire perimeter about 1/4 inch from the edge. This secures the insulation, which is all APEX needs. Some builders add a few tack points in the center of large quilts to prevent shifting.

7. Add drawcord channels

Sew grosgrain or a folded fabric strip along the head and the bottom edge to create channels. Thread shock cord through each and add cord locks. The neck drawcord seals out drafts; the foot drawcord closes the footbox. See the draft collar guide if you want to add one.

8. Make the footbox

Choose an open footbox (cinched with a drawcord plus snaps or a short zipper along the bottom) or a sewn footbox (the bottom 18–24 inches sewn closed). Open is versatile and great for hammocks; sewn is warmer and simpler. See open vs sewn footbox.

9. Add pad attachment points

Sew small grosgrain loops or snaps along the edges for pad straps. Our DIY quilt pad straps guide shows several options.

Weight estimate

For a regular quilt (about 3.2 yd² per layer):

Use lighter fabrics or a thinner APEX for a summer quilt; a 2.5 oz APEX summer quilt can come in around 14–16 oz.

Hammock version

For a hammock top quilt, many builders cut a little narrower (around 48–52 inches) because the hammock wraps your sides, and choose an open footbox with a drawcord so the quilt can be used as a blanket or zipped into a footbox. Add a snap at the neck so you can wear it like a poncho at camp. A synthetic top quilt is a popular hammock choice in humid regions because it shrugs off condensation under a tarp.

Common mistakes

• Cutting too narrow: drafts make a quilt feel colder than its insulation weight.
• Skipping the test fit: pin it together and lie under it before final stitching.
• Too short a stitch: perforates fine nylon and weakens seams.
• Compressing the insulation in the seam: trim a little APEX at edges.
• Wrong needle: a dull universal needle snags light ripstop.

Care for a synthetic quilt

Synthetic quilts are easy to wash; avoid high heat, which can damage polyester insulation. See washing synthetic quilts, and store it loose rather than compressed.

Want a head start?

If cutting fabric and sourcing parts feels like too much, a DIY quilt kit bundles pre-matched materials. For the broader picture, start with our DIY top quilt overview.